Overfishing and warming oceans in the South China Sea are threatening stocks of a key staple food in Vietnamese cuisine.
A dwindling anchovy population isn't just bad news for the local population — it's also a dire situation for the ocean's ecosystem.
What's happening?
The South China Sea is one of the most overfished seas in the world; around half of the world's fishing vessels operate in it, according to the Center for Strategic and International Studies. The organization noted that once-abundant fish stocks have plummeted by 70-95% since the 1950s, and catch rates have dropped heavily since around the turn of the century.
One of the most significant issues is the territorial disputes between the countries in the region. Vietnam, China, Malaysia, Taiwan, the Philippines, and Brunei all have competing claims. China claims the bulk of the sea, referring to an 80-year-old claim that experts call the "nine-dash line."
The rise in the sea's temperature — which reached record highs earlier this year, according to the Asia News Network — compounds the thorny diplomatic issues. Warmer seas mean lower oxygen levels, and that could lead to migrations and fish becoming smaller and less nutritious.
For anchovies and the people who rely on them, this is a notable problem. According to the Associated Press, fishermen are reporting decreased catches of this species, while market sellers are left with "bait-size" anchovies to sell.
Why are anchovy stocks important?
Anchovies are little fish that play a big role in the health of the ocean's ecosystem. They're a key food source for numerous species.
For example, the northern anchovy, found in coastal waters on the west coast of North America, is a food source for more than 50 marine animals, per The Pew Charitable Trusts. It is also a common ingredient in fishmeal used to feed the fish reared on fish farms.
The species has been essential to the way of life for many people in Vietnam for generations as a key ingredient in fish sauce.
Bui Van Phu, a fourth-generation fish sauce maker, told the Associated Press: "Fish sauce to me is not just a condiment for cooking. But it is our craft, our culture, our tradition that need to be preserved, safeguarded, and inherited."
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As Phu detailed, many families who have historically produced fish sauce are considering "getting out of the business" because of increasingly high anchovy prices due to dwindling stock.
Meanwhile, it could impact the broader Vietnamese economy. Vietnam and Thailand are the world's largest exporters of fish sauce, and the market is expected to increase in value to $29 billion by 2032, according to an Introspective Market Research report shared by the AP. If supply, size, and standard issues regarding anchovies continue, Vietnam and its fish sauce producers could miss out on this lucrative business.
What's being done about lower anchovy stocks?
A 2021 report commissioned by the ADM Capital Foundation made three key recommendations for sustaining fish populations in the South China Sea. Even in the best-case scenario, the situation had degraded too far to avoid heavy losses by the time of the report. Still, a 50% reduction in fishing, along with other actions, could allow for a partial recovery.
The main recommendations are encouraging regional dialogue between the main parties to ease simmering tensions, finding a more sustainable form of fishmeal for aquaculture, and integrating climate policy with fishing practices.
Fortunately, promising developments, such as using microalgae for more sustainable fishmeal, could also help solve the problem.
The broader issue is that rising sea temperatures due to a warming planet are harming fish species. Human-caused pollution is one of the main drivers of warmer weather, so reducing our production of planet-warming gases that trap heat in the atmosphere is essential.
To help, individuals can look to reduce waste, switch to electric vehicles, install rooftop solar panels, and use more efficient heating methods in their homes.
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