Stories about fast fashion dumping grounds usually show the fashion graveyards in countries like Ghana. But, unfortunately, dumping grounds can be found all over the world.

What's happening?

A northern section of the Atacama Desert near Alto Hospicio has slowly become a dumping ground for fast fashion brands. The reason the desert is the spot of choice is because of its proximity to the local duty-free Iquique Port in Chile.

Vendors at this port import secondhand clothing from places like the U.S. and Europe. It imports between 40,000 and 60,000 tons every year. 

Unfortunately, these shipments contain a big portion of clothing that is no longer wearable. Instead of taking the clothes to a contractor and paying for proper disposal, importers will dump or incinerate the unwearable clothes in the desert. Local vendors will also take unsold inventory into the desert to incinerate.

"It is estimated that 40,000 tons had been dumped in the desert by 2022," Jean Karla Zambrana, a local activist who promotes recycling clothing near Alto Hospicio, said to the Asahi Shimbun. 

Why is the dumping of fast fashion important?

"Toxic gases from burn sites reach the neighborhood, contaminating the air," Zambrana said. These gases include chemicals from both the dyes and fabrics of the clothes, and the fires kick up dark ash into the air. "Locals are suffering," she added.

Illegal dumping is a byproduct of a higher supply than demand, as well as a reduction in the amount of wears per consumer. Over the last 15 years, shoppers have reduced their wears per garment to seven to 10 times before it's tossed, a decline of more than 35%, according to Earth.org. The reduction of wear is also a result of the decline in quality to maintain the low prices for the customer.

An environmental lawyer, Paulin Silva, specifically puts the blame on these dumping sites on brands like Zara and SHEIN. "The world has been flooded with an amount of clothing that exceeds individual needs because of the rise of fast fashion, which is prospering under capitalism."

What's being done about fast fashion dumping sites?

The environmental department near Alto Hospicio has installed 220 surveillance cameras to prevent further dumping. They have since exposed more than 400 violations since 2024, and fines have been given to the offenders. This department also plans to install 200 more cameras and hire 20 more individuals to patrol the desert near the city.

To help on an individual level, consumers can break up with fast fashion and reduce their impact by shopping with vetted sustainable brands, shopping at thrift stores, and recycling their unwanted clothing items with companies like Trashie, which will recycle clothing properly. By leaning into thrifting, consumers can get high-quality goods for fast fashion prices without harming the environment.

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