A frustrated writer for The Straits Times called out a rising problem in the thrifting scene. Bottom line: Secondhand shopping may not be as sustainable as you thought.
What's happening?
Amanda Chai was a big fan of the Japanese thrift store 2nd Street. "Trust me when I say that no one is more delighted about the arrival of 2nd Street in Singapore than me," she wrote.
A lifelong thrifter, Chai recognized both the financial and environmental benefits of breaking up with fast fashion. "In theory, having more people value second-hand goods helps undo some of the pollution caused by the fashion industry," she wrote. "But the reality is hardly this simple or rosy."
Much of that can be attributed to 2nd Street's "worrisome" buy-and-sell policy. Instead of selling their high-quality clothing, Chai noted that many opt to donate or sell fast fashion items instead, filling 2nd Street (and other secondhand stores) with cheap goods.
Since 2nd Street relies on this policy to keep itself afloat, turning down every poorly-made garment it receives from Shein or Temu is unrealistic. With shoppers also overbuying from thrift stores left and right, Chai argued that finding high-quality, sustainable hidden gems while thrifting is becoming less and less likely.
Why is this important?
Sure, thrifting is often a cheaper, more sustainable alternative to buying clothing firsthand. However, it isn't always eco-friendly.
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Donated secondhand clothing that doesn't sell or is not recycled is exported overseas to countries in the Global South, according to Green America. This harms local business owners who often can't compete with dirt-cheap prices. The leftover clothing is either landfilled or burned, polluting the air and soil while exposing people to harmful chemicals.
This issue, as Chai touched upon, stems from overconsumption. As thrifting becomes more of a trend than a necessity, people buy more clothes than they need, often sending them back to thrift shops where the process begins again.
What's being done about the overconsumption of thrifted goods?
The main problem is not thrifting in and of itself. It's the mindset that people, many of whom are accustomed to fast fashion, approach thrifting with.
If you'd like to shop sustainably, prioritize quality over quantity. Better yet, focus on the clothing you already have. Instead of heading to the store (secondhand or otherwise) when your pants tear, try mending them.
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What's your primary motivation in shopping at thrift stores?
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"When you truly buy into the lifestyle of thrifting," Chai wrote, "you consider every new piece in front of you more consciously."
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