A new investigation is raising serious concerns about fast fashion giant Shein's ties to forced labor and human rights abuses, sparking renewed calls for accountability by the brand and the fashion industry, Leigh Day reported.
What's happening?
An investigation by the campaign group Stop Uyghur Genocide uncovered an alleged link between fast-fashion retailer Shein and textile manufacturing in China's Xinjiang region, an area infamously associated with forced labor.
The link is so strong that the U.S. government "presumes that all goods manufactured in the region are made with forced labor," per the law firm Leigh Day, which represents Stop Uyghur Genocide.
China denies all allegations of genocide, forced labor, and human rights violations in Xinjiang, according to the Financial Times.
Stop Uyghur Genocide's research focused on the Guangqing Textile and Garment Industry Orderly Transfer Park in China's Guangdong province, which reportedly received investment and support from Shein.
The park was specifically designed to connect Xinjiang-based cotton and textile companies with e-commerce platforms like Shein, according to the report.
Shein's reported involvement with the park includes signing a strategic cooperation agreement in November 2023 and hosting an "investment promotion event" there in March 2024, allegedly encouraging manufacturers to "move to the premises with the potential benefit of becoming a supplier for Shein," per Leigh Day.
Given the park's role in sourcing Xinjiang textiles, outlined here by the U.S. Department of Labor, and Shein's alleged participation, the research suggests Shein's products are at a high risk of being made with materials linked to forced labor.
Why is this study important?
The concerns outlined in the study are part of broader international criticism of China's treatment of the Uyghur population in the Xinjiang region.
Several countries, including the U.S., have formally accused China of genocide, CNN reported. Stop Uyghur Genocide said that Shein's support of the textile park could be seen as profiting from the forced labor and upholding modern slavery, per Leigh Day.
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More tax incentives 🏦 But fast fashion doesn't just exploit vulnerable workers — it also takes a serious toll on the environment.
Built on speed, volume, and disposability, the fast fashion model encourages consumers to buy large quantities of cheap, low-quality garments, which are quickly discarded. This cycle of overconsumption is expensive, and it also drives massive textile waste and unsustainable production practices.
Fast fashion production also pollutes waterways, relies heavily on toxic chemicals, and depletes natural resources. These practices disproportionately harm the health and livelihoods of local communities by threatening access to clean water, food, and safe living conditions.
What's being done about forced labor and fast fashion?
Stop Uyghur Genocide submitted its evidence to the UK's Financial Conduct Authority, urging it to consider the findings given Shein's potential listing on the London Stock Exchange. The group argued that allowing Shein to go public in the U.K. would endanger the country's commitments to human rights and ethical financial practices, per Leigh Day.
"Shein is not simply turning a blind eye — I believe it is profiting from a system built on the forced labor of persecuted people," Rahima Mahmut, executive director of Stop Uyghur Genocide, said in a statement, per Leigh Day. "The Financial Conduct Authority must take this evidence seriously."
Meanwhile, there are growing efforts around the globe to regulate fast fashion through legislation and industry-led initiatives, but enforcement can be inconsistent.
While international law catches up, you can make a difference by breaking up with fast fashion. While it can seem like you are saving money while shopping fast fashion, experts estimate that you can save $200 or more a year by investing in fewer, higher-quality sustainable pieces that last longer.
If sustainable brands are out of your price range, secondhand shopping is a great alternative. Thrifting at local shops or shopping resale sites like ThredUp can save you money while also helping to lessen the environmental and social impact of clothing production.
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